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Sliver Paddleboards

Assembly Table

The Ladder Assembly Table is simply a ladder that provides a solid base for building your hollow wood paddleboard kit. This table is used for gluing panels, attaching your ribs to the fishbone and serves a base for the rocker table. The important role of the assembly tables is that it is flat and raises the board to a comfortable height. If the assembly table has any imperfections, twist, crown, sag, they will transfer into the finished paddleboard. You can build the assembly table out of pretty much anything that can support the weight of the clamps but 2×6 lumber is recommended for the base. If you use screws to attach the rungs you can disassemble the table after you are finished and reuse the lumber.


Requirements

Straight 2×6 lumber for the base

1×4 or 2×4 lumber for the rungs (one 8′ 2×4 will build three 32″ rungs)

Wood screws


Tools

Measuring tape

Saw

Screwdriver


Assembly Table Base

Start with a solid base out made out of 2×6 lumber (bird’s eye view)

Paddle Board Assembly table - close-up

Loosely place the rungs on the base so that you can use the fishbone as an alignment gauge.

Ladder Assembly Table - overview

Attach the first and last rungs to temporarily. Attach a spring clamp to hold the nose and tail of the fishbone to the secured rungs. With the fishbone securely anchored at the nose and tail you can start attaching the rest of the rungs. Use the notches in the fishbone as a guide for aligning the rest of the rungs. Each rung should be aligned and squared with one edge of the notches. (Image below) Check to see of the first and last rung need to be adjusted since they were only temporarily attached. If the assembly table is built in this fashion the front face of the 2×4 rungs can be used to support the rocker table risers.

Ladder Assembly Table - Close-up

Note the notch near the nose and tail does not always match the spacing on the rest of the notches. This is due to the boards overall length. Assembly Table - Final Check

As a final check, attach a string from corner to corner forming an X in the middle. The crossing strings should just touch with either string on top. If they do not, the table has a twist in it. To remove the twist shim where the base contacts the sawhorse until everything is in perfect alignment. Mark the location of the shim and the location on the floor if the table has to be moved during construction.

 
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TUTORIALS

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  • Lumber
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    • Western Red Cedar
    • Milling Lumber
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    • Flattening panels
    • How to Fix Knots
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  • Fishbone
    • Paper Plans
    • Joining the Fishbone
    • Fishbone Ribs
    • Attaching the Fishbone
    • Gusset
  • Rails
    • Bead & Cove Rails 101
    • Making Bead Cove Strips
    • Strip & Feather Rails
    • Outline Strip
    • The Foundation Strip
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    • Feathering the Rails
  • Blocking
    • Vent Blocking
    • Leash Plug
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    • Nose & Tail Blocking Layout
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  • Top
    • No Clamps No Problem
    • Deck Reinforcements
    • Ready to Install Top?
    • Attaching the Top Panel
    • How to Shape Top Panel
    • Sanding
  • Glassing
    • How to Glass a Paddleboard
    • Glassing Schedule
    • Mixing Epoxy
    • Glassing Preparation
    • Cheater Coat
    • Custom Logo
    • Lamination Coat
    • The Lap Joint
    • Hot Coating
    • How to Install a Fin Box
    • Installing a SUP Handle
    • Sanding a Wood Board
    • Gloss Coat
    • Varnish
    • Adding Traction
  • Rocker Tables
    • Ladder Rocker Table
  • Tools
    • Assembly Table
    • Homemade Drainage Pipe Clamps
    • Homemade Bead & Cove Clamps
    • Homemade SUP handle jig
    • Homemade Fairing Board
    • How to Make Wooden Wedges
    • Resaw Jig
  • Customer’s Building Questions
  • Resources
    • SUP Fins
    • Testing the Board is Air tight
    • Wood SUP Handle
    • Sharpen Hand Tools – Scary Sharp
    • Supplies
    • Best Epoxy – Wooden Boards

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